Trees & Shrubs
Planting the right trees and the right place can help reduce energy expenses and shield the property. However, it’s a more permanent and costly decision than other plants. Keep scrolling and learn what to do for success.
Planting a tree
What
How to choose a tree that works well in utah and your needs?
Where
Plant at the right place for energy saving, wind protection…
When
Pick the time that causes the least stress for trees.
How
How to make sure your planted tree is healthy
What
How to choose a tree that works well in utah and your needs?
Where
Plant at the right place for energy saving, wind protection…
– What –
The Right Tree
There are some factors you should take into consideration when you decide on the type of tree you want to plant. Utah State University provides tree browser that you can look into the details.
Size
Look into to the height, crown size and the rooting area of the mature tree and see if it fits into the space (fence, utility, park strip) or will interact with your property foundation.
Zone
Make sure the tree can survive in your weather zone. Keep in mind the tree’s natural habitat and if it can tolerate the heat
Sun/shade
Trees usually enjoy sun, but not necessarily the torching afternoon sun in summer. If your yard is shady, check shade tolerance of the tree.
Water
What’s the water requirement for this tree? Often a new tree requires at least once a week deep watering, but overwater can kill a tree too.
Soil
What’s the current soil type you have and if the tree tolerates those (salt, poor drainage, PH level, etc)?
Maintenance
Is the tree bearing fruits? What’s the strength and the longevity of the tree? Is it prone to disease?
Are native trees better?
Think about the natural habitat of a tree when we transplant it to a new area. A tree native in Utah doesn’t necessarily mean it’s adapted to your yard. Lots of “native trees” are in the cool, moist mountain region and we mostly live in the hot, dry valley. Taking the previously listed factors into consideration and consulting your local nurseries to get an idea what works for you.
What should I pick?
Deciduous
The leaves shed every year. They are usually broad leaves. Ex: maple, elm, oak, aspen…
Evergreen
Their leaves are usually needles and stay over winter. Ex: fir, juniper, spruce, pine, …
Avoid planting…
Invasive species like Russian olives, Siberian elm, Tamarisk…
– where –
The Right Place
Besides considering the minimization of conflicts with power lines, fences and foundation, planting the right tree in the right place can provide wind protection, shade, and cool air.
For shade
1) Tall deciduous trees block 3-7pm sun. 10-20′ away if the tree > 25′.
2) Small deciduous or evergreen trees with lower limbs block late afternoon sun
3) Small deciduous or evergreen trees with lower limbs block early morning sun
4) Tall deciduous trees block 7-11am sun. 10-20′ away if the tree > 25′.
5) Trees planted to the southeast, south, or southwest should extend out over the roof to shade a building in summer. To avoid winter shading, deciduous trees should be 2.5x of their mature height away from the building.
6) Plant trees or shrubs to shade paved areas.
Information from Utah State University Forestry Extension
For wind protection
Trees should be planted upwind of the area which is often west, northwest, and north. However, local conditions like mountain ranges may cause prevailing winter winds to be from other directions. They should be close enough together so their crown edges meet within a few years without overcrowding.
Somthing you should considerate…
Sidewalks, driveways, and buildings: so the crown has room to develop and the roots don’t mess up the foundation.
Power line: fallen branches can cause electrical outages.
Wildfire hazard: if you live in fire-prone areas.
– When –
The Right Time
Trees are best planted when they are still dormant with tight, unopened buds in the early to mid-spring after the soil has thawed. The graph below uses is based on the Valley. If you live at higher elevation, your planting season will be a bit different based on when the soil thaws out.
– how –
The Right Way
DO NOT fertilize or prune down the healthy branches for 1-2 years. To the contrary belief, fertilizing at planting time stimulates root rot. Transplanting shock can last 1-2 years. Deep water once a week or every 2-4 days in summer.
1) Remove all packing materials and untangle root bound if any.
2) Dig a hole that’s 3-5 times wider than the root ball but just as deep as the root ball. *Root collar needs to be above soil.
3) Backfill with the original soil. Only mix with organic matter if the soil has high clay content—otherwise no other amendments.
4) Give it a good soak and it will help remove air pockets. Water deep and wide enough to encourage root to grow out.
5) Mulch 3-4″ deep to keep moisture and temperature down. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to avoid decay. *No plastic mulch.
6) Staking only if needed.