Water-wise garden
About 65% of Utah culinary water consumption is applied to landscapes. We can do a better job in water conservation without giving up gardening – our yards can actually serve a role for restoring the native ecosystem.
Soil & Mulch
Watering
The more water directly goes into the soil, the more efficient it is to hydrate your plants.
Plant selection
Select the ones that are adapted to our environment, or even better – the native plants.
The foundation
Soil & Mulch
No good soil = no healthy plants. The soil in the valley tends to be alkaline, high clay with little organic matter – the opposite of what most plants like. Don’t be despair. We can save this.
This image is the soil from our yard: high in clay which doesn’t allow water to infiltrate well and the plant roots have a hard time growing. (You might get tiny carrots if you don’t amend your soil.)
The relationship between speed of draining and size of particles.
1. Do the soil test
Plants need a healthy amount of essential nutrients (P,K, N), microorganisms, good water drainage, level of PH and salinity to thrive. Knowing your soil profile is the start of your gardening success. You can send your topsoil (6-12″) from your yard to Utah State University for a test for $25 (basic test)
Learn more about different soil types here.
2. Amend with organic matter
Utah soil is low in organic matter on average (<1%). You can till in organic matter (compost, manure, wood chips, leaves…) to improve high-clay soil to allow better water infiltration (=better water contain rate = happy roots.)
Organic matters also encourage earthworms to come (worm poop = nutrients.) They often in the top soil unless it’s very hot or cold.
2. Mulch it heavily
Have you witnessed the top of your soil dry out in 30 min under Utah sun? Adding at least 3″ organic mulch (wood chips, grass clippings, leaves…) helps retain the moisture and increase organic matter in the soil. Replenish mulch after it breaks down a lot.
*Mulch does take nitrogen away when it’s decomposing – if your plant leaves are yellowing, fertilize with nitrogen.
Minimizing evaporation
Watering
Watering as a way that it goes to the root directly (if possible) and deeply. Infrequent long watering is usually better, even for your lawn.
Water usually doesn’t penetrate if you water shortly. Soil can get hydrophobic when it’s very dry.
Gentle watering for long allows water to penetrate.
30 min of trickling water can reach to the ideal depth of tree roots.
Infrequent deep watering encourages plant roots to grow deeper. It also saves your water bill.
Water efficiently with Deep Watering
Infrequent, slow and long watering allows water to penetrate soil deeper (>8″) as healthy plants have long roots. Infrequent watering also encourages plants to grow their roots longer. You can run the water with a drip system or from the hose for 30 min. This idea can also apply to lawn: 2-3 times/week aiming for 1″ in total per week.
Read more at Weekly lawn watering guide
Only water where it’s Needed
Using drip irrigation to direct water to the plants to avoid water evaporating in the air. It also minimizes diseases (water on leaves encourages diseases) and weed growth (if you don’t feed water between your plants.)
Read more at USU extension: How to irrigate efficiently
Minimize evaporation with Timing
Watering in the early morning or late in the day when the sun is not above your head.
Not sure the efficiency of your sprinkler system? Sign up for Free water check
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dought and heat resistant
Plant Selection
Observe your yard condition (climate, sun/shade, soil, etc) first, understand what your plants natural growing environments are, and see if they’re aligned. You can find water-wise plants at Conservation Garden Park database
Bonus: Native plants
The plants that are native to where you live are adapted to the harsh environment, which means they don’t need to be babied.
Read more at Cache Valley Native Plants.
Find native plants in your zone here
